Preparing the Extensions and Bleach
Clean your extensions thoroughly. To remove any product buildup or other imperfections that may be present on the extensions, wash them 2-3 times before beginning. Make sure they are completely dry and place them on individual sheets of tin foil.
Buy a bleach kit. These can be purchased from big box stores such as Walmart, Target, or Kmart and are usually also available at grocery or cosmetology stores. Make sure the kit you are using includes gloves, bleach and developer. Try to find a kit with clear instructions. The clearer the better, as there will be little room for error! The darker the hair of the extension, the more lightening power you will want the bleach kit to have. If your extensions are dark, you will want a kit that includes a 40 volume developer as it will give the most lift.
Mix the powder bleach with the liquid developer. It is best to do this in a glass bowl or container specifically made to hold hair color. Follow the directions on the box precisely, as it is important to have the ratio just right. The specific ratio of bleach to developer will vary by brand, so check the directions before you begin working. Always mix and apply bleach in an area that is well-ventilated. This is to avoid irritation of the eyes or nose from any harsh smells or chemical gases put off by the bleach.
Applying the Bleach
Put on your gloves. This step is extremely important! Don’t forget to wear gloves while applying the bleach to avoid chemical burns on your hands. Also make sure your arms and the rest of your body is covered.
Massage the mixture into the extensions starting from the top. Apply the bleach liberally using circular motions and moving from the top, near the clip, to the ends. Fully saturate the extensions. This works especially well if your hair is 1 solid color. If your hair is ombre or highlighted, try to match the same pattern in the extensions as in your own hair. For example, if you want to match your highlights, use a highlighter brush to apply the bleach.
Fold the foil over the extensions so that no bleach spills out. Bleach works best when it is warm and moist, so the foil will retain heat and keep the bleach from drying out as it processes.
Check on the extensions every 10 minutes. Peel back the foil and look at the color of the extensions. When they are ready to be washed, they will be a shade of very light yellow. If they haven’t achieved a yellow color in 1 hour, remove them from the foil anyway to avoid significant damage from over-processing. If you used a higher volume developer, the extensions will bleach more quickly than if you used a lower volume.
Managing Color
Wash the extensions with a PH balancing shampoo. The shampoo will work to neutralize the chemicals in the hair and stop the processing. Make sure to use a deep conditioning treatment or olive or coconut oil and leave it on the strands overnight. Some neutralizing shampoos will change color when applied to the hair. Don’t worry, this just shows that the shampoo is working!
Allow the extensions to dry thoroughly. Check the color. If you aren’t happy with it, bleach the extensions again, but be sure to check every 5 minutes to make sure they are not being over processed. Be extremely careful when bleaching twice. Lower quality extensions may break or fall off if over-bleached.
Eliminate brassy shades with a toner. A toner is a glaze or gloss that slightly changes the tone of the hair to make it warmer or cooler depending on the desired effect. If your extensions are a little bit brass-toned, a cool shade toner can remove the brass coloring. You can apply toner straight from the package by massaging it into the extensions as previously described. Make sure to let the toner process for as long as is noted on the package, thoroughly wash the extensions, and let them dry to check the color.
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