Different Types of Pearls
Akoya Pearls Also known as saltwater pearls, these pearls form in Akoya mollusks found in bays, inlets, and atolls across Japan, China, Vietnam, Thailand, Australia, Indonesia, and Tahiti. These pearls have a fast-growing period (between 6 and 18 months). Origin: Japan, China, Vietnam Sizes: 2.0-3.0mm to 9.0-9.5mm (in rare cases, 9.5-10.0mm) Colors: White, silvery blue, gold Shapes: Round, free-form baroque Price: >$200Tip: Baroque-shaped pearls are irregular in form. They’re non-spherical and have a natural, organic look.
South Sea Pearls South Sea pearls are saltwater cultured pearls with a white, silver, or golden hue. They’re large and take a long time to grow, which makes them more expensive. Origin: Australia, Philippines, Indonesia Sizes: 9.0-10.00mm to 14.0-15.0mm Colors: White, gold Shapes: Free-form baroque, circled baroque, smooth baroque, round Price: >$1,500
Tahitian Pearls Also known as black pearls, Tahitian pearls are saltwater cultured pearls with a wide range of colors. These gorgeous pearls can have blue, green, and purple overtones, making them appear iridescent. Origin: French Polynesia Sizes: 8.0-9.0mm to 15.0-16.0mm Colors: Black, gray, peacock, green Shapes: Free-form baroque, circled baroque, smooth baroque, round Price: >$200
Freshwater Pearls Freshwater pearls are the most versatile and affordable pearls out there. These pearls range in size, shape, and color, depending on where they are formed or cultured. These types of pearls are the most commonly found in commercial jewelry. Origin: Fresh bodies of water Sizes: 2.0-3.0mm to 9.5m-10.0mm Colors: White, rose, silver, cream Shapes: Round, oval, drop, free-form baroque Price: >$100 EXPERT TIP Cory Schifter Cory Schifter Jeweler & Certified Jewelry Appraiser Cory Schifter is a Jeweler, Certified Jewelry Appraiser, and the Owner of Casale Jewelers in Dongan Hills, Staten Island, New York. Casale Jewelers is known for its selection of fine jewelry, designer brands, engagement rings, certified diamonds, custom-made jewelry, and watches. Cory has over 10 years in the jewelry industry and is a certified jewelry appraiser. Cory was featured on NY1 News “Got it Made in New York” for Casale Jewelers’ custom design business and Casale Jewelers was recognized by American Express and Facebook in 2012 as one of the top five small businesses in the nation. Cory Schifter Cory Schifter Jeweler & Certified Jewelry Appraiser Fun fact: Freshwater pearls have a diverse range of quality. On an A - AAAA Grading System, you can find freshwater pearls that rank the lowest (A) or the highest (AAAA).
Sea of Cortez Pearls These saltwater pearls are extremely valuable thanks to their rich history. Harvesting these pearls was banned in 1939, and the pearls were not rediscovered until 1996 when they began to be cultivated and cultured in Mexico. Today, the pearls can only be purchased from specific vendors. Origin: Mexico Sizes: 8.0-9.0mm to 11.0-12.0mm Colors: Blue-green, green, mauve, copper, rose Shapes: Symmetrical baroque, smooth drop, round Price: >$2,000
Unique Types of Pearls
Keshi Pearls Often called poppy seed pearls, Keshi pearls form when a pearl continues to grow outside the pearl sac or something irritates the mollusk while the pearl forms. This causes a unique irregular and asymmetrical shape. Colors: White, cream, lavender Shapes: Irregular, asymmetrical Price: >$280Fun fact: Keshi pearls can be made from any type of mollusk, as they’re a byproduct of the culturing process.
Mabe Pearls Also known as blister pearls, half-pearls, and composite pearls, mabe pearls have a flat shape that helps them stand out from the rest. These pearls can be found in fresh and saltwater and are often used to make jewelry. Colors: White, gold Shapes: Round with a flat backside Price: >$30Fun fact: Mabe pearls can be formed from any type of mollusk—they’re a product of the culturing process!
Baroque Pearls Baroque pearls have a unique and captivating shape that’s anything but symmetrical. These pearls are irregular and textured because they are developed differently in the mollusk. Sizes: Irregular, asymmetrical Colors: Pink, lavender, silver, gold Shapes: Irregular, organic Price: >$50Fun fact: Baroque pearls are a byproduct of the culturing process. This means they can form in any type of mollusk.
Biwa Pearls Often called Lake Biwa pearls, Biwa pearls have a dark, iridescent color. These pearls are unique because they can only be found in Lake Biwa in Japan. Their shape is unconventional and resembles rice. Origin: Japan Colors: White, cream, pink, lavender Shapes: Stick-like, organic Price: >$60Fun fact: While Lake Biwa is the primary source of these pearls, they are now being produced in other freshwater pearl farming regions. Because of this, the term is often used to refer to all freshwater pearls.
Coin Pearls Coin pearls are cultured pearls with a flat, coin-like shape. These pearls are formed flat in the mollusk, which gives them a disc appearance. They’re primarily found in freshwater and are often used in contemporary jewelry designs. Origin: China Colors: White, cream, pink, lavender Shapes: Flat Price: >$15Fun fact: Coin pearls range in all shapes and sizes, depending on how they’re cultured.
Natural vs. Cultured Pearls
Natural pearls form organically, while cultured pearls form commercially. Pearls are formed when an irritant (parasite or bacteria) enters the mollusk. When a pearl is formed naturally, the oyster or mussel slowly secretes the organic material aragonite and conchiolin to irritate the mollusk and create a pearl. A cultured pearl is made when an irritant is manually inserted into the mollusk. Think of it like this: Natural pearls are made only by nature, while cultured pearls are formed by man.
Saltwater vs. Freshwater Pearls
The body of water a pearl is made in determines its type. Pearls can be classified into two categories: saltwater and freshwater. Saltwater pearls are formed in saltwater, while freshwater pearls are formed in freshwater. However, this isn’t the only difference: Saltwater pearls: Formed in saltwater oysters Longer to form Higher luster Higher quality More expensive Freshwater pearls: Formed in freshwater mussels Quicker to form Lower luster Lower quality More affordable
Pearl Sizes
Pearls come in various sizes, making them ideal for dainty, elegant jewelry or stand-out pieces. The standard, most popular pearl size is 7.0-8.0mm, which is commonly found on necklaces or stud earrings. Pearls can be as small as 6.5-7.0mm or as large as 12.0-13.0mm. The larger the pearl, the more expensive it’ll likely be.
Pearl Shapes
There are 7 main types of shapes used to define pearls. While the most popular is a classic round shape, many find beauty in the more irregular, organic styles. Take a look at the shape types below: Round or true round: The most valuable and rarest pearl shape. Has a perfect spherical shape. Near round or off-round: The most popular pearl shape. Has an oval, egg-like shape when inspected up close but appears round from a distance. Button-shape: Most commonly found in earrings and necklaces. Has a flattened back and round top. Drop-shape: The second-rarest pearl shape. Has a smooth, symmetrical shape that resembles a teardrop. Baroque: The most common pearl shape. Has an irregular, unique shape with unsmooth characteristics. Circled baroque: Also known as “Circles of Love.” Has the irregularity of baroque pearls but with a circular shape. Free-form baroque: Most commonly used to make jewelry art. Has an asymmetrical shape and fluid appearance.
Pearl Colors
The most popular pearl color is white; however, white isn’t the only color a pearl can be. Pearls come in various colors, most reflecting their environment and natural properties. The main color of a pearl is known as the bodycolor and is composed of many additional colors called overtones. The overtones combined create the overall color of the pearl. These colors include: White Pink or rosé Green Purple Blue Iridescent or orient
Which pearl is best for you?
Choose a pearl that matches your size, luster, and financial needs. When it comes to picking out pearls, opt for the type that best fits your needs. There are three things to consider: luster (the brilliance or color of the pearl), size, and affordability. For the most brilliant luster, go for an Akoya pearl. For a larger pearl, opt for a South Sea pearl. For the most affordable pearl, go with choose a freshwater pearl.
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