Decide on the size of your trap. There are several options but basically you want your trap to be slightly larger than the size of the targets you will be using. If you will be using various target sizes, base your trap on the largest size target. For my trap, I used letter-sized targets that I print myself, so 8 1/2" X 11" is the size!
Cut the wood you choose (Use 1" X 4" strips) to fit. Don't forget to add for the thickness of the wood (1" wood is actually 3/4" thick!). Thus, for the 8 1/2" sides you want to cut two strips to 8 1/2" lengths (assuming using box joints as shown in the diagram). For the long dimension -- 11" you need to add 3/4" twice for two strips 12 1/2" long.
You will want some sort of backing -- Luan Plywood or something like that is more than sufficient. Cut your backing to 10" (8 1/2" plus two 3/4") by 12 1/2" (this length already accounts for the thickness of the wood). If you want perfection, assemble the sides first and measure for the backing.
Assemble the box. To prevent splitting, either use small wood screws about 1 1/2" in length or drill holes somewhat about the size of the screw shaft. Two screws in each joint are sufficient. Another screw option is deck screws -- they are cheap but will require drilling to prevent splitting.
Once you have all four corners done, you will have an open box. Attach your backing using about two screws per side. Again, no stress is placed on the box -- you just want something that that will hold together.
Fill the box with one layer of duct seal. A thinner layer is sufficient, but duct seal is a bit messy to work with and it is far easier to simply use the entire thickness of the "brick." You will need enough "bricks" to fill in the entire area. I had some left over and cut that into strips to seal between bricks.
Mount a clip to hold the targets. A heavy paper clip is perfect. Remove one wire and hot-glue that side to the upper edge of the target box with the remaining wire sticking up.
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