How to Do Finger Coils

Moisturizing and Detangling Your Hair

Start with freshly washed, damp hair. Hair augmentation specialist Nikia Londy suggests "preparing your hair by applying sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner in the shower." If you've dried your hair, fill a spray bottle with water and use it to wet your entire head of hair. While your hair should be damp, make sure it’s not dripping wet. In that case, Londy advises "patting your hair dry." It’s okay if you didn’t wash and condition your hair immediately before coiling it—you can dampen your hair if it's dry.

Apply a leave-in conditioner to your hair to help with detangling. Choose your favorite leave-in conditioner and follow the instructions on the bottle to apply it to your hair in an even layer. This will help lock in moisture and make it much easier to detangle your hair using a brush. Leave-in conditioners come in mist and cream forms.

Comb out any tangles using a wide-tooth comb. Once your hair is damp, use the comb to gently brush out any tangles. Start combing the tips of the hair first, working your way upwards with the comb to make the process easier. It is especially important to use a wide-tooth comb if you have curly or afro-textured hair. This will help to prevent damage and breakage.

Sectioning Your Hair

Split your hair into 2 sections. According to hair augmentation specialist Nikia Londy, "The number of hair sections depends on how thick you want your finger coils to be." Use the end of a rattail comb to create a line at the back of your head. This line should go down the middle of your head vertically to create the 2 sections. Hold each section in place using a hair tie or clip.

Separate each section in half one more time. Once you have 2 main sections of hair, split each of these sections in half horizontally so that you’re left with 4 sections of hair. Use clips or hair ties to hold each section separately. It’s okay if the sections aren’t equal—they’re only used to separate your hair into more manageable sections.

Rub a curl enhancing cream or gel into the first section. While it doesn’t matter which section you choose to start with, it’s easiest to work from the back of your hair to the front. Undo the first section of hair and squeeze a quarter-sized amount of the gel onto your fingers before rubbing it into the entire section of hair thoroughly. Hair augmentation specialist Nikia Londy stresses that you should "make sure every part of your hair is evenly covered in curl-enhancing cream from top to bottom." Use a comb to brush the gel through the section of hair evenly if desired. Make sure you apply the gel to the ends of your hair to prevent frizz.

Creating Coils

Separate a 1 in (2.5 cm) square piece of hair from the first section. Opt for a smaller or larger piece of hair depending on how small or large you want your coils to be and depending on the length of your hair. If you have short hair, then your coils will need to be small, but if you have long hair, then you can do small, medium, or large coils. This strand will turn into your first curl. For example, for super small coils you might pull out 0.5 in (1.3 cm) sections of hair. If the strand needs more curl enhancing gel, apply another small drop to your fingers and spread it throughout the strand of hair. Use a rattail comb for even, precise sections, or use your fingers if you don’t mind sections that are not as precise.

Start twisting the hair as close to the roots as possible. Wrap the first section of hair around your finger, starting super close to your roots as you create the spiral. This will ensure you get the fullest coils possible. Twist the coils as tightly or loosely as you'd like.

Twirl and stretch the strand of hair until it coils when you let it go. Gently pull the strand down as you're twisting the hair around your finger. Continue twisting the strand until you reach the very bottom, and repeat the process starting at the roots until your strand coils nicely when you release it. It doesn't matter which direction you coil the hair, but if you do plan on separating the coils once they're dry, it's best to coil them all in the same direction.

Repeat the coiling process on the rest of your hair. Continue pulling out small sections of hair with your fingers or a rattail comb and twisting them around your fingers to create a tight coil. Once you finish one entire section of hair, continue with another until you’ve coiled your entire head of hair. This process may take 1-2 hours, or even longer if you have thick or long hair, so be patient and take a small break if needed. Dampen your hair again if it starts to dry out. Apply additional curl enhancing gel to the sections of hair if necessary.

Let your hair dry completely to avoid frizz. This may take an entire day if you plan to let your hair air dry, so avoid separating or styling the coils until they’re completely dry. Spray a curl-refreshing spray on your coils to ensure they don’t frizz. You can separate each coil with the end of a comb the next day to add volume, though this may cause tangles. If desired, you can sit under a hooded dryer to make your hair dry faster.

Maintain your look by tying your hair up with a scarf. Do this before you go to bed to prevent your coils from getting flattened. Use a silk or satin scarf to cover your coils. When you wake up, use a refreshing spray to bring your coils back to life if necessary. If you don't want to tie your hair up in a scarf, use a satin or silk pillowcase instead of a cotton pillowcase to help prevent damage to your coils.