How to Perm Short Hair (from Prep to Maintenance)

The Basics of Perming Short Hair

Give yourself at least 2.5 hours to complete your perm. Though it can totally be done at home, perming your hair is a pretty involved process. Allow yourself plenty of time to section out your hair, wrap it in rods, and apply the perm solution. The whole process usually takes about 2.5 hours.

Use red, blue, or pink perm rods, which are the smallest sizes. To perm your hair, it will need to be long enough to wrap around a perm rod 2.5 times. With short hair, you have the option of red, blue, or pink perm rods. Go for the smallest size red or blue perm rods if you want tight ringlets. Opt for larger pink perm rods if you're looking for looser, more relaxed waves. Red perm rods are under 2 inches (5.1 cm) in length. Blue perm rods are the next size up and are 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm). Pink perm rods are 2.5–4 inches (6.4–10.2 cm).

Seek help from a stylist if your hair is too short for the perm rods. To perm your hair yourself, your hair needs to be long enough to wrap around a perm rod at least 2.5 times. If it's not, all hope is not lost! Contact a reputable stylist in your area to see if they can help you achieve the perm of your dreams. Their added expertise and tools might be just what you need. If you've got super short hair, you'll be limited to the smallest size red perm rods. If you want looser waves, you might try growing your hair out until it can wrap around a pink perm rod at least 2.5 times.

Hair Prep

Wash your hair before the perm. First, brush your hair so that it's detangled during the washing process. Next, use a clarifying shampoo to get your hair nice and clean. Avoid conditioning your hair before the perm, as it can disrupt the setting process. Clarifying shampoo removes any excess oil and product buildup in your hair so that it's extra clean for the perm. Pat your hair dry with a towel or old T-shirt. Your hair can still be damp during the perm, just not dripping wet. After you get out of the shower, comb through your hair with a wide-toothed comb. A comb is gentler on damp hair and can get out any of the remaining tangles in your hair.

Divide your hair into 4 sections. Twist each section into 4 small buns, 2 on either side of the top of your head and 2 on the bottom. Secure each bun with a hair clip. If your hair is not long enough to divide into sections, simply comb through your hair and part it as you normally would.

Wrap a towel around your neck. This protects your skin from the perm solution. Next, drape a plastic cape over your shoulders. Fasten it with snaps or velcro to make sure it stays on throughout the perm. Choose a towel you're not worried about getting damaged, as the perm solution may soak into the towel. Pull the towel over the plastic cape so that it overlaps. That way, no perm solution will be able to touch your skin.

The Perm

Secure 1 section at a time in perm paper and rods. Unclip 1 section of your hair. Take a strand from that section and fold the perm paper over it. Set a perm rod on top of the paper and twist it up to your scalp. Clasp the perm rod shut so that it stays in place. Repeat this process for each section so that all of your hair is wrapped in the perm rods. If your hair is too short to be sectioned off, start wrapping small sections of your hair in the perm paper and rods at the start of your hairline. Work your way back as you go until all of your hair is secured. Make sure you don't miss any strands of hair! Wrap up every section so that your perm comes out even.

Wrap a fabric strip around your head like a headband. Secure the strip so that it rests at the base of the perm rods at your hairline. This prevents any perm solution from dripping onto your forehead.

Apply the perm solution to your hair. Choose either an alkaline solution or an acid solution. For soft, smoother waves, pick an acid solution. For tighter, stronger curls, use an alkaline solution. Spray all of the solution throughout your hair, going over each rod multiple times if there is still any solution left in the bottle. Avoid using an alkaline solution if your hair is dyed or damaged. The solution is particularly strong and could be too harsh on already damaged hair.

Unclasp 1 perm rod after 5 minutes. Unfurl your hair from the rod to check on the curling progress. Look for an S-shaped wave in the hair. If you see one, your hair is ready to be rinsed. If you don't see a tight S-shape, your hair needs more time. Wrap your hair back in the rod and clasp it in place. Check after 5 minutes even if the box says you need to wait 10-15 minutes. Leaving your hair in the perm solution for too long can damage your hair. Check again after 7 minutes. If you still don't see an S-shaped curl, keep checking each minute until you see one.

Rinse your hair for 3 minutes, then dry it. Keep the rods in place for this step. Make sure to get water on each one so that you get out all of the perm solution. Then, let your hair air dry with the rods still in place. Alternatively, run a blow dryer over your hair until it's dry.

Apply a neutralizing solution. First, replace the fabric strip wrapped around your hairline with a new one. Spray a generous amount of neutralizing solution on each curl rod. Keep applying the solution over the curls twice over if there is any left in the bottle after the first round. Leave the solution on your hair for 10 minutes. Then, rinse it off with water. Rinse your hair for 3 minutes to get out all of the solution.

Take your hair out of the rods. Unclasp each perm rod and let your curls unfurl. Rinse your hair in water for another 5 minutes to get out any of the leftover neutralizing solution. Let your hair air dry after the process is done. It's best to avoid styling your hair for a week to let your new curls settle. Your perm will last about 4-6 months.

Perm Maintenance

Wait 3 days before washing your hair. Avoid getting your hair wet until then. This can disrupt the curl pattern and soften the curls. If you want a more subtle, looser wave, you can wash your hair sooner. Just know that you won't get those tight curls back!

Pick a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner for curly hair. This helps your perm retain its shape and stay healthy. Consider adding a weekly deep conditioning treatment to prevent your hair from getting dry or damaged. Look for deep conditioning treatments that contain ingredients like plant oils, butters, and silicones. Avoid shampoos and conditioners that contain sulfates.

Avoid styling your hair for a week after the perm. Let your hair get used to its new shape. Even minimally styling your hair, like using a hairbrush, in the first week can disrupt your curl pattern. If you need to detangle your hair, comb it with a wide-toothed comb or run your fingers through your hair.

Use a heat protectant spray when you heat style your hair. Using straighteners or other heat styling tools can cause permed hair to get frizzy and damaged. Avoid using heat as much as possible, but when you do, use a protectant spray to minimize the damage.