- Bamboo, birch, white ash, and maple are all great options for a longboard because of their durability, but you can also use plywood for a cheaper option.
- Besides the wood, you'll also need parts including trucks, wheels, and bearings.
- The easiest way to mold the deck of your board is using a coffin press or a vacuum press, although you can mold the deck using weights or clamps instead if you don't want to purchase a press.
- Once the deck of your board is complete, cover it with polyurethane varnish or fiberglass resin to protect it.
Picking Your Parts
Gather your materials for the deck. You will need: Plywood or hardwood to build your deck; 2-3 Wood glue or another strong adhesive Rough and fine-grained sandpaper 8 small screws to attach the trucks to the deck—four for each truck. The screws should be long enough to fasten the trucks securely to the board, but not long enough that they get in the way. Match the width to the size of the holes in your trucks. Screws or a staple-gun to help seal the board when you shape its curve. The amount of screws/staples will vary greatly depending on the size of your board and the quality of your pressing mechanism—screws may not be necessary if you use a board press, but they will make your deck much tighter if you are molding it with basic weights or clamps. A drill Weights A jig saw to cut out the deck Polyurethane varnish or fiberglass resin, hardener, and cloth A large piece of paper and a pencil for drawing out your board design. Grip tape (to make it easier for your feet to stick to the top of the board)
Choose your wood. For a cheap board, use 2-3 1/4-inch-thick plywood sheets or 4-6 1/8-inch sheets. Alternately, use 7-9 plies, each about one mm thick. You will use screws or wood glue to fuse these pieces of wood together into a longboard deck. The amount of sheets that you use depends upon how much flex you want: the more layers of wood, the more rigid your board will be. You can also buy a pre-pressed deck and build your longboard out from there. If you have the time or money to do so, try to find high-quality wood. Bamboo, Birch, White Ash, and Maple are popular choices, and each offers a different ride. Bamboo will be the strongest of the three. Each piece of wood should be 10 inches (25.4 cm) wide by 40 inches long, or longer if you want a longer board. You should have a basic idea of the shape of board you want before you start to build one. Remember, however, that you can always cut a piece of wood down to size. Do not go to the lumberyard at a hardware or home-and-garden store: this wood is usually dry, and thus better for construction than riding. An actual lumberyard would work best. Realistically, you can use almost any hardwood—even salvaged pieces of flooring.
Choose your adhesive. Find a good, flexible wood glue, or epoxy and resin. You can find these products at most construction or hardware stores. The adhesive functions to keep the layers of plywood together, so if you have cheap wood glue, you will have a cheap board.
Choose your trucks. Trucks are the metal bits that attach the wheels to the board and allow the longboard to turn when you lean. The right trucks are important to a longboard's feel. You will most likely want Reverse Kingpin Trucks, unless the board has a tail and you are planning to ollie it. Standard Kingpin provides better pop, while Reverse get better stability and turn response. Some longboard trucks have Double Kingpins, which allow for a tighter carve, but sacrifice some stability.
Choose the wheels. The harder the wheel, the more it will slide. If you want to go sideways, get one with a higher (harder) durometer. A good slide wheel will usually be above 80a durometer. Softer wheels will be more grippy, and better for sticking tight turns.
Choose your bearings. Bearings fit inside the wheels and enable them to turn smoothly. These range quite a bit in price, depending on the quality you are looking for. Ceramic bearings are nice, but they usually cost well over a hundred dollars. A suitable set of steel bearings can cost as little as $20. For instance, check out Bones Reds or Seismic Tektons for a good entry-level bearing.
Sealing and Shaping the Deck
Cut your plywood (or hardwood) to size. Cut the wood into strips that are about 10 inches (25 cm) wide by 40 inches long—slightly longer than you want your board to be. Leave longer strips for a longer board, or shorter strips for a shorter board. Don't worry about shaping the board: you just need rectangular strips of plywood for now. You will carve out the shape of your board once you press the pieces together into a solid deck.
Draw out the shape of your board. On paper, draw a straight line that is as long as you want your board to be. This line will be the center of your board. Now draw the shape of your board as it will flare from this line. If you want your board to be symmetrical, only draw one half of the deck, then use the same outline to carve out both sides. Consider how you want to use your longboard: longer boards (40-60+ inches) tend to be better for building speed on long-distance straightaways; shorter boards are more portable and may be better for quick, sharp turns; cruising boards tend to be wider, and carving boards tend to be more streamlined. If this is your first board, keep things simple. Draw a slight curve at the front and try to keep it nice and wide, since you will be steering at this end. The widest part of the board should be about 1/3 of the way down from the nose.
Use a pencil to trace the shape of your board onto the top piece wood. You will press the wood together with pressure and adhesive, let the pressed wood dry, and then carve this shape out. Trace carefully, and make sure to draw the deck exactly as you want it. Look out for imperfections in the wood, and make sure that each half of the board is symmetrical—unless you'd like it otherwise.
Drill holes around the outside of the board outline. You will drill screws through these holes to help clamp the wood together, so try to make the holes slightly smaller than your screws. Again, the amount of screws (and, thus, holes) will vary greatly depending on the size of your board, so there is no set number that you must use. Try to space the screw points evenly around the board shape, and consider which points on your design might require extra support to seal—parts of the board that flare/jut out, for instance, or that dip sharply in toward the center. Keep your pieces of plywood or hardwood evenly stacked, and hold them in place so that they do not shift. Drill holes straight through the wood, and make sure not to drill through the area that will become your deck. Drill the holes about one inch from the outline of the board. Consider waiting to drill the holes until the wood is clamped. Drill the screws directly into the wood, and be careful not to drill into the deck shape.
Stick the pieces of wood together. Mix your adhesive, then use a paintbrush to spread a thick layer of adhesive on the inner-facing side of each piece of wood. Then, carefully put them back together. Make sure that your pre-drilled holes are still on top. Make sure to protect the floor. The pressure will push glue out of the pre-drilled holes and the edges of the wood, and you don't want to spill glue on the floor.
Shape the board. Stack your plywood pieces so that a clean, smooth side of one piece (which will eventually become the top surface of the longboard) is on the bottom. Arrange the wood so that the ends of the board are each resting on something, and the middle is hanging free.
Place weights onto the board. Lay weights onto the stack of wood, right around the widest part of the board. You want your eventual board to bend slightly upwards in the middle, so that when you stand on it, it flattens out. This procedure is more of an art than anything else, so put weight on it until you like the result. Make a light curve for best results. Leave the board beneath the weights until the curve is well set into the wood. Consider using strong clamps instead of weights. Clamp the center of the board so that it sinks below the front and back tips of the deck.
Put a screw through a hole near the nose of your board. Then put the weights back on top or re-clamp the deck. if you are happy with the curve, put screws in all around the board. Keep the part between the lines free of adhesive.
Check the curve again to make sure you are satisfied. When you are sure, wait for the adhesive to set, following the directions on the bottle.
Take out the screws.
Consider using a board press to mold your deck. The press is much more expensive than simple adhesive, but it may be a wise investment if you plan to make multiple boards. The two main types of board press are the coffin press and the vacuum press. Coffin press: A coffin press is two 2x4s running along the edges of a sheet of plywood, along with another 2x4 running along the middle of another sheet of plywood. The sheets of plywood are then connected via screws and nuts with the 2x4s facing inward. The board (all of your layers glued together) is placed on the two 2x4s. Then place the top of the coffin press on top of the board, screw it down to the amount of concave you want, wait about 24 hours for the glue to dry, cut out your shape, and you've got a deck! Vacuum press: When you put the plies in, they are already cut into shape and glued. The vacuum press sucks all the air out while pressing the plies into a mold that you can use. Wait 24 hours with your plies in the press, and you have a deck. You can buy a vacuum press online.
Finishing the Deck
Carve the shape into the board. Grab one of your pieces of plywood, and find the smoothest, best-looking side. This is going to be the bottom of the board. Measure from the sides to find the exact center of the board. Draw a line lengthwise down the center of the board—from the front to the back. Trace along the edges of your template. Hold your template in place with your hand, a clamp, or a weight. Flip the board over and repeat for the other side. Your design is now on your board. Take your stencil off of the plywood and make sure that you like the shape.
Sand everything down. Make sure that the board is smooth and free of scratches.
Cover the board with a layer of polyurethane varnish or fiberglass resin. Either coating will protect your paint from scratches. Look around at hardware stores and skate shops to compare prices and see what's available in your area. If you are using fiberglass resin: First, mix the fiberglass resin with the hardener at the correct proportion. Then lay out the fiberglass cloth on the painted side; using a paintbrush, spread the resin evenly across the board. Be sure to work quickly and effectively, because the fiberglass begins to harden in about 15 minutes. After it is applied, let it cure for about 3-4 hours. If you are using polyurethane varnish: Spread the varnish evenly across the board with a paintbrush. Make sure that the coat is smooth. When you're done, let the varnish dry for 3-4 hours before you proceed with your board-building.
Decorating the Board
Sand the board down one final time using a very fine-grained sandpaper. Now, you can add whatever sort of design you like, with paint or waterproof markers. For a smooth finish, sand down the bare wood using 120 sandpaper. Follow that up with 150 grit. Then work your way up to 180 grit.
Consider painting your board. You can leave your deck plain with its natural wood, but painting or otherwise decorating the board is a great way to make it unique. Use electrical tape or a stencil to mark out your design. Paint the bottom of your deck. Use spray paint. Cut out a stencil from paper or cardboard, choose your colors, and spray-paint the design onto the smooth bottom of your board. Allow the paint time to dry before you touch or ride the board. Use regular acrylic paint. Sketch out a design and paint between the lines; paint whatever you like. Allow 20-60 minutes for the paint to dry after you decorate the board. Use wood stain to paint. To create a pattern with a few different shades, use three coats for the dark parts and one coat for the lighter parts. After the stain dries, remove the tape. Use permanent markers. Your design may be less colorful and more fragile than if you used paint, but you may find that markers give you greater control when you are drawing on your board.
Add a final layer of polyurethane varnish or fiberglass resin. This will seal your design onto the bottom of the board. The varnish or resin should be clear, so your design should still be visible through the protective coating.
Cover the top of the board with grip tape. Buy a chunk of bulk grip tape that will cover your whole board. The tape will help your feet stick to the board at high speeds. Apply it carefully to the deck, just like a large sticker. Remove excess tape with a razor blade or box cutter. The design is up to you: Cover the entire surface with grip tape. This is the simplest method, and it will look like a standard longboard top. Cut up pieces and create designs out of grip tape. Make sure that you cover enough of the board surface that your feet can easily grip. In general, your pattern should contain more grip tape than empty wood space. Paint your board and apply clear grip tape over the top to display your design. The clear grip tape may be somewhat opaque, but the colors and general idea of your design should shine through.
Consider using board wax instead of grip tape for barefoot riding. Use surfboard wax on the surface of your longboard if you plan to ride it barefoot most of the time. Bear in mind that you will need reapply wax, as it wears off with use.
Attaching Trucks, Wheels, and Bearings
Place the bearings inside the wheels. To do this, take a bearing, and push it down into each wheel. You can't push it too far; there will be a little barrier for it to sit against. Put a bearing inside each of the four wheels.
Attach the wheels to the trucks. Just slide the wheel/bearing assembly onto the truck, with the concave portion of your wheels (if they are concave) facing outwards. Secure these onto the trucks with the nuts provided. The nuts should be tight enough that they allow for easy and free spinning of the wheels, but not so tight that they come off while skating.
Drill the holes for the trucks. Be sure that they are straight, or else the trucks will not align correctly.
Attach the trucks and wheels to the deck. You will need the truck spacers and the trucks to do this. Place the spacer between the truck and the deck. When orientating your trucks, make sure that the tightening bolt faces towards the nose of the board in the front, and that the loosening bolt faces towards the tail of the board in the back. Arranging them to face opposite directions ensures that you can turn in the right direction when you lean. Tighten the truck and spacers on to the deck with 4 bolts to each assembly.
Test out your new board. When you have attached your bearings, wheels, and trucks to the deck, your board should be ready to skate. Stand on the board to make sure that it holds your weight. If it does not break from your weight, try riding it down the sidewalk. Make sure that you have double-checked the integrity of every piece of your board—bearings, wheels, trucks, deck—before you ride it around on streets or busy walkways.
Comments
0 comment