How to Blend Hair

Using Clippers to Blend Hair

Start with dry hair. When you’re cutting hair with clippers, wet hair will stick to the head, making it difficult to cut evenly. On the other hand, dry hair will easily lift up, allowing the clippers to slide underneath and cut everything to an even length. If you’re cutting the top with scissors, use a spray bottle to dampen the hair just on the top.

Move the clippers in the opposite direction of your hair growth. A blended hairstyle is accomplished by using various clipper guards to create a seamless fade. When you’re working with clippers, place the guard against your roots, then gently push the clippers into your hair. Lift the clippers away from your head as you move them forward. You only want to cut about 1–2 in (2.5–5.1 cm) at a time so the clippers don’t get bogged down. For example, if you’re cutting the hair at the back of your neck, you’d place the guard at the bottom of your hair. To start cutting, move the clippers up about 2 in (5.1 cm) into your hair, pulling them slightly away from your head as you do so.

Use a 6 or 8 guard on the top of the hair. In a blended cut, the hair needs to be longer on the top and shorter on the bottom. A size 6 guard is about ⁄4 in (1.9 cm) long and an 8 is about 1 in (2.5 cm) long. These are standard for a fade, although you can certainly make the hair longer or shorter if you prefer. Most clipper guards use the same standard sizes and lengths, so this should apply no matter what brand you’re using. Feel free to play around with the lengths. You might even want to scissor-cut the top if you want it to be really long. However, a simple clipper cut is the easiest to get right.

Clip the bottom and sides with a 2 or 3 guard. The hair around the neck and ears should be the shortest. To achieve this look, cut the hair down to ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) with a size 2 guard, or if you prefer it a little longer, use a size 3 guard to cut the hair to ⁄8 in (0.95 cm). However, don’t cut all the way up to the top length. Leave about a 1 in (2.5 cm) strip of hair all the way around the sides and back of your head between the 2 lengths. This will be the hair that you fade. Don’t worry about getting the hair around the neck and ears just perfect. You’ll clean that up at the end. If you’re cutting your own hair, use 2 mirrors so you can see what you’re doing. It's easiest to use your bathroom mirror and a handheld mirror. Also, rest your free hand on the back of your head to keep you from accidentally cutting too high.

Blend the lengths with a 3 or 4 guard. If you used a size 6 guard on top and a 2 on the bottom, a size 3 guard will be the perfect length for blending. If you went a little longer, with a size 8 on top and a 3 on bottom, you’ll get a more natural-looking fade with a size 4 guard, which will cut the hair about ⁄2 in (1.3 cm). Use this guard to trim the strip of hair you left, and clean up any pieces that look out of place.

Touch up the sideburns and back of the neck with a size 1 guard. With a size 1 guard, carefully go around the ears and along the back of the neck to create a clean line. Also, use the clippers to line up the sideburns to make sure they look neat. A size 1 guard cuts the hair to ⁄8 in (0.32 cm). This makes it perfect for creating that fresh-from-the-barber look. For the closest cut without shaving, don't use a guard. Make sure to look at the sideburns from the front to ensure they’re the same length.

Applying Hair Extensions

Choose natural or high-quality synthetic extensions that match your hair color. If your hair extensions don't match your hair color, or they're a shiny synthetic version, they're going to look obvious no matter how well you apply them. To ensure you get the best match, visit your hairstylist and ask them to recommend the right color and texture for your hair type. These extensions will cost more, but they typically last longer, can be heat-styled, and will look much more realistic. If you’re buying your extensions online, many companies will help you match your extensions using a photograph. Take a picture of your hair in natural light, without any filters and send it to the company. However, keep in mind that this still won’t be as accurate as visiting a salon in person. Since the ends of your hair are the most visible, you should match the extensions to this color, rather than your roots.

Section your hair in a straight line from ear to ear. Use a comb or a clip to draw a straight line from the bottom of one ear horizontally around the back your head to the other ear. Clip all of the hair above the part on top of your head, and comb down the bottom section. It’s important that you get your parts very straight when you’re applying hair extensions. Otherwise, they can look messy.

Spray your roots with a little hairspray if you have fine hair. If your hair is very fine, the extensions could slip off when you apply them. A light coating of hairspray will give your hair a little extra texture, so the extensions will be more secure. You could also use dry shampoo, if you prefer. Parting the hair before you spray the roots will allow you to apply the product exactly where you want to attach the extensions. You can also use a comb to tease the roots a little. Do this for subsequent sections, as well.

Braid the bottom section and pin the braid against your scalp. The bottom layer of your hair can look really obvious beneath extensions, especially if you have a blunt cut. To hide it, gather the hair below the part you made and braid it all the way to the ends. Braid the hair tightly enough that it stays secure, but keep it loose enough that the braid remains flexible. Then, wrap the braid onto itself and pin it securely against the back of your head. This is similar to the method stylists use to apply sew-in extensions, although those use cornrow braids instead of horizontal parts. If you’d like, you can secure the ends with a small hair elastic, but since you’ll be pinning the braid, this isn’t necessary. If your hair is very short, or you want very long extensions, you can even braid or pin back all of your hair to hide it beneath the sections. Just work in small sections, pin the braids securely, and be sure each braid is completely covered by the wefts.

Apply the first layer of wefts across the line you just divided. Depending on the type of extensions you chose, you may clip, tape, or glue them into place. Lay the weft of hair against your roots and secure it into place. If you’re using tape-in or glue-in extensions, take care not to attach them to your scalp. No matter how you apply the extensions, be sure to stop about 2 finger-widths away from either side of your hairline the extensions will blend naturally when you wear your hair up. 'Tip: Not sure how to apply your extensions? Check out these guides on clip-in and glue-in extensions!

Add a second layer if you want an even thicker look. If you’re worried that your extensions aren’t thick enough, double them up. However, to reduce the pressure on your natural hair, clip the second layer to the first weft. In most cases, a single layer of extensions will be sufficient.

Create a new part about ⁄2 in (1.3 cm) above the first. Once you’ve applied the first extension, go up just a little higher and part your hair from ear-to-ear again. A good guideline is to space your extensions about a pinky-width apart. This will give you plenty of fullness, but the extensions won’t be crowded. Make sure to create a clean line for each new part.

Apply another weft to this section, and continue up to your crown. Follow the same guidelines you used to apply the first section of hair. Place the next extension near your roots and clip, tape, or glue it in place. Then, continue making new parts and applying new sections until you reach the crown of your head. If you’re using more than one color of hair extensions, alternate them in a random pattern for the most natural look.

Finish by applying wefts about 2 in (5.1 cm) from either side of your part. Once you reach the top of your head, your hair will look flat if you don’t add any more extensions. To avoid this, part your hair how you normally would. Then, create a new part about 2 in (5.1 cm) to the left of your part and apply an extension, followed by the same technique on the right side. These wefts should reach from about 2 finger-widths away from your hairline back to your crown.

Curl or wave your hair and the extensions together. After you’ve applied the hair extensions, style your hair with a curling iron or a curling wand. Make sure that you include both the extensions and your natural hair when you’re dividing your hair into sections for the most natural look. Curls or waves will help the extensions blend with your hair more naturally than if you wear your hair straight, especially if you have very thick hair or a blunt haircut. If you prefer to wear your hair straight, it's best to have your extensions sewn in, which will help them blend better. If you used synthetic hair extensions, make sure it’s okay to heat style them before you do this! Check the package to find out if your extensions can withstand heat and, if so, how much heat. In most cases, synthetic hair extensions can withstand heat up to 325 °F (163 °C). Spray your hair with a heat protectant before you curl it to protect it from damage.